🔗 Share this article ‘Every Cook Ought to Learn Here’: Unassuming Turkish Restaurant Ranks Fourth on Roll of London’s Leading Food Spots. When assembling a ranking of London’s top restaurants, one might expect familiar high-end establishments. However, tucked prominently among these gastronomic heavyweights is a modest salonu found in a outlying area of north London. A Surprise Recognition The small Turkish spot, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the fourth top restaurant in the city by a prominent culinary publication. The recognition has made the family utterly shocked. “I am utterly shocked,” states a family member, alluding to his parents’ dedication that led to their small place achieving such a lofty spot on a respected 99-strong list. A Charm of Simplicity This small shop, which was a basic cafe before its conversion into a sought-after spot, has kept much of its original charm. It fits just more than 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking show, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy place,” notes the owner. A Signature Offering: Tantuni Ultimately, it is all down to the food, and this eatery certainly delivers. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a moist, juicy consistency. It is then added into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. Once the flavourful mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to take in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is rolled securely inside. It is typically consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a strong burst of taste, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all together. Beyond the Classic Tantuni There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The respected food critic called this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”. When it comes to dessert, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a treat. It is soaked in less syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a more intense, toastier and more balanced taste. Surpassing the Titans Notably, this modest restaurant has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the top of the list, following other notable dining destinations. While two people could easily leave the restaurant full for less than £25, similar experiences at top-tier establishments can run into many times that price. The Creed of Warmth The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I do not subscribe to that,” explains the owner. “I believe what is paramount is warmth, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.” This sentiment is echoed by the list’s curator, who stated that if he was in a position of power, he would “insist to make every chef in London visit this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”. The Story of Dedication Unlike many chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food did not work at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I am truly pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son. Many restaurants need years to find their footing, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its success is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of work. “Our mum would be really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would come here to support her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. All of these roles made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares. A Recognition for the Community This restaurant’s accolade is bound to have meaning beyond its own doors. “In my opinion many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the broader importance of this culinary triumph.